SATURDAY β SUNRISE
I was SORE, SALTY, and seriously SPENT⦠but so damn glad I showed up.
The lighting was PERFECT.
The waves were PLAYFUL.
I even HIGH-FIVED my surf coach mid-ride.
FRIDAY β SUNSET
Fresh off a FIN SLICE and a brutal massage, I felt REBUILT.
The waves were ANKLE SLAPPERS but my body was LOOSE and ready to RIP.
TUES & WED β SUNSET
I was EXHAUSTED.
I COASTED around the break.
I WALKED instead of paddling.
Somehow⦠it WORKED.
SUN & MON β SUNSET
Two days of RE-ACCLIMATING to the ocean and recalling how un-land-like it is.
I caught some LONG RIDES... and had several SPECTACULAR WIPEOUTS.